Wave breaking macrofeatures on a submerged rubble mound breakwater

Mario Calabrese, Mariano Buccino, Francesco Pasanisi

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

15 Citations (Scopus)


Results of an extensive experimental study on the interaction between waves and submerged barriers are presented. In particular, the present paper deals with identification of breaking conditions and morphological description of breaker types occurring on a submerged rubble mound breakwater. Barriers with varying geometry and permeability were used for tests. Video data were collected and analyzed and, in case of breaking, different classes and subclasses of breaker types were described and classified, considering: (a) the features of the incipient mechanism of wave rupture, (b) the shape of wave profile at breaking and (c) the evolution of breaker travelling above and leeward of the barrier. The breaker index, i.e. wave height to crest freeboard ratio at incipient breaking was studied as a function of the structure layout and wave parameters; experimental results were found to reasonably agree with Goda and Morinobu (1998) findings and a best-fit expression for scale parameter in Goda breaking formula was derived. A first parameterization of breaker types was then proposed, considering both wave and structure characteristics, described by appropriate non-dimensional numbers. © 2008.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)216 - 225
Number of pages10
JournalJournal of Hydro-Environment Research
Issue number3-4
Publication statusPublished - 20 Apr 2008
Externally publishedYes


All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Environmental Engineering
  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Environmental Chemistry
  • Water Science and Technology
  • Management, Monitoring, Policy and Law

Cite this